Food Review: The Brink, Liverpool

Image: The Brink

The Brink is one of Liverpool's more renowned establishments, something which rests squarely upon it's purpose. Devised and managed by charity Action on Addiction, it set it's stall out as a dry bar, eschewing alcohol as a place to meet, eat, socialise and relax, sans booze.

Now for many that might seem a horrifying prospect (this writer included initially), but it's a noble initiative which comes true to life once you enter. The Brink represents more than just a place to eat - it's essentially a hub for people regeneration, and that's evident everywhere you look. 

The walls are adorned by details of a number of weekly activities, which alongside the usual selection of evening pursuits involving dancing and music also number life skills, C.V. writing and employment skills, and a wealth of positive talks.

Action on Addiction's work as a charity battling the effects alcohol can wreak on society also sees the venue's purpose plough any profits back into the community and their efforts to negate the damage done by the drug. This, coupled with the general positivity the venue emits form every orifice, certainly works as a better tonic to wash your food down than one laced with gin.

And onto the food. We opted just for main courses rather than starters with the fanciful idea we'd make pudding, but that was proved unassailable by the generous portions. The Big Breakfast on offer was just that, a glorious concoction of locally sourced bacon, sausages, eggs black pudding, mushrooms and beans. It got finished, but laid out flat the eater.

Even better was the Italian Sausage Hot Pot. Now while the name may conjure up a slightly more exotic version of Betty's classics off Corrie, the end result was far removed form any stodgy Northern stereotypes - much like the venue in that regard.

The delicious sausages contained Chilli and fennel and were rapidly devoured by both parties (annoyingly for the one who ordered it), with the accompanying roasted potatoes and red onions augmenting their taste wonderfully. And rather than a soup like liquid for it all to swim in, a sumptuous slushy tomato and basil sauce knitted it altogether. Oh and there was a fried egg. This dish was a revelation.

We also washed the meals down with two non alcoholic (of course) cocktails, a Bollywood Sour which was deliciously acerbic, and a fruity Drivers Dream. Both were fantastically flavoursome, assuaging any need for an alcoholic accompaniment.

As great as the food and drinks was though, we'd have to say the biggest triumph was the overall atmosphere - the Brink is a kaleidoscope of happiness. The service in particular was brilliantly attentive, and we'd hazard a guess that we were doted on with only a fraction less aplomb than Action on Addiction's rather more high profile when she famously visited in 2012 - The Duchess of Cambridge.

Overall you can't fault The Brink. Yes, boozing is 100% out of the window but as a focal point for the recovery and regeneration of a community you really can feel the lasting effect it has, and for fear of being as syrupy and sweet as the cocktails, that's a genuinely great component of eating here.

So too, is the food. Jib the booze and lace your next culinary excursion down with a binge load of feelgood instead, and enjoy Liverpool's heart-warming establishment just as much as we did.

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