Food Review: The Meat Co, Shepherd’s Bush

The Meat Co in Shepherd’s Bush is the international chain’s flagship restaurant in London, offering diners a selection of high quality steak cuts in a South African grill style. After grabbing a Schooner (two-thirds or so of a pint) in the comfortable African-themed surroundings of the grill’s downstairs bar, we headed upstairs.

There we slipped into the warm and inviting dining room framed by walls of wine bottles suspended in glass, perhaps a nod to the rather weighty wine list where there is no shortage of choice ranging from the very reasonable to the very expensive. A traditional South African Boerewors, served on a bed of polenta, got dinner off to a great start with the juicy texture of the beef sausage perfectly matched with the spicy chakalaka sauce.

Keeping the African flavours alive, we sampled Doerewors - a dried out smoky version of the aforementioned Boerewors, along with the sharp salty slices of the chilli billtong - all washed down with the excellent South African Syrah WolfTrap red wine. we also sampled the chocolate and beetroot bread, a dish you wouldn’t normally expect to see on any menu. It’s an unusual combination on paper, and was like eating desert before the main course had even left the grill. 

The mother of mains was the Wagyu cut of the day, so good they couldn’t even price it on the menu. We’re told the cow would be treated to classical music, given up to three massages a day and they would be fed alcohol as part of their rich diet. It all turns sinister when the cow's most trusted carer, who would sleep in the same room as them, slaughters them in their sleep without a moments notice, catching them at the point where they are at their most relaxed.

Pretty brutal, but really tasty. This slab of meat has lived the best possible life that most four legged beasts could even dream of. Was it gimmicky? Possibly. But it didn’t matter, the taste was phenomenal. If you are of the carnivorous type you are simply spoilt for choice.

Beyond the realms of super-aged rib-eye steak, fillet foie gras (pictured above) and even kangaroo, pickings for vegetarians are unsurprisingly pretty slim. The bruschetta to start was excellent, but the main course of grilled salmon (stretching it here to pescetarians) was dry and distinctly average - as were a number of the side dishes.

The grilled asparagus, for example, was a huge portion but lacked seasoning and flavour. After paying for that on its own you would be left disappointed. Also lacking was a strong finish to the meal, the chocolate fondant arrived with high expectations and looked great but it was just a bland and tasteless ooze.

Overall, meat is what this place does well - with a top draw selection of wines to boot. However, any rogue vegetarians in your party may feel they are missing out. The slabs of juicy spiced protein were at the epicentre of what makes this a good restaurant but The Meat Co needs to look to improve the supporting cast of sides and deserts if it is to be truly knockout.