Food review: Albert's Schloss, Manchester

Image: Jack Kirwin

Over the past two years Albert Hall has cemented its essential position in Manchester, becoming a go-to spot for lovers of live music, dance music and even bingo. Now the team behind the 2013 renovation of the grade II listed building, Trof, have branched out to create a place for locals to dine as well as dance. 

Located beneath the hall, Albert's Schloss doesn't veer far from the decor of the main building - it's every bit as charming and grand. The copper lighting rig spans across the length of the room, the darker hues in the room stem from wood and brick, positioned against the lighter tones from the tiling and glowing bulbs.

It's been designed with a Bavarian bier halle in mind, split into sections with strips of benches positioned across one side for those interested in a casual get-together but there's also more intimate dining tables and booths for smaller groups set on drinking or eating.

We dived straight in with a wheat beer, the delightfully aromatic Paulaner, but luckily there's much more to the thirst whetting options than hop and wheat fermentations - cocktails.

Albert's Schloss' extensive menu covers all bases including, from new to old tipples. We opted for a classic - Pornstar Martini. The Schloss sharer Pornstar comes in at a whopping £160, but we settled for just a standard size at a reasonably priced £8.50.

Elegantly presented in a rounded Martini glass, it had all the signature characteristics of a good Pornstar; a rich, glowing orange colouring, a thick fruity foam layered on top, a shot of prosecco accompaniment and a jewelled passion fruit floating on the liquid. The tartness and tang of the fruit combined with the sweetness of the vanilla vodka left us craving another before we'd even finished. 

For starters we opted for the Blackened Pardon peppers, the tangy charred fruits off set by a Harissa dip with a hefty kick behind it. Making light work of them we quickly progressed to the mains and a rumbling, impatient stomach led us towards the classic cheeseburger.

It didn't lack the loveable and satisfying components of a good patty, it was juicy, tender and above all - delicious. The sharpness of the pickle and sweetness of the brioche bun took this burger up a level and the grouchy belly was soon appeased.

If that felt like a distinctly non Germanic choice, our second main was anything but - the gloriously named Schweinshaxe. Translated as pork knuckle, the beautifully tender meat was accompanied by apple and horseradish sauce and pickled red cabbage, alongside a mouth-watering gravy.

It all dovetailed excellently with the charred broccoli (a perfect accompaniment), a dish that much like it's namesake Schweinsteiger pretty much encapsulates Teutonic brilliance. Luckily though, none of the ingredients were past their best like dear Bastian.

And herein lies the charm of Schloss. This isn't some overly stereotypical vision of the old British perception of Germany, a pastiche of Oompah bands, warm lager and leery men, but more the cosmopolitan nation which is arguably Europe's finest at present. All done with a Mancunian twist. Maybe Van Gaal should give the Trof office a call.

Find Albert Hall events