Restaurant review: Powder Keg Diplomacy

Powder Keg Diplomacy brings a new philosophy to a social pastime and offers Victorian imagination, ingenuity and innovation, obtainable in the modern-day madness and treated as a perfect escapist dining experience.

Jayne Robinson

Last updated: 30th Sep 2011

Powder Keg Diplomacy - a suitably intriguing name for a suitably fascinating restaurant.

Priding itself on "honouring tradition and subverting convention", revivalism is the key here with seasonally and locally sourced food and drink combined to create a historical menu fit for a king.

Situated on St John's Hill in Clapham, the colonial-inspired interior complete with glasshouse, dark wood, and shrubberies, plays the perfect back-drop to Head Chef Warren Beeseley's celebrated menu.

Consisting of 'Ye Old English' a la carte creations, starters such as 'Game terrine with sloe-gin infused cherries, peppercorn oil and soda bread' create a comforting and bygone impression, whilst 'Grilled gurnard fillet, pink fur apples and a bacon and clam sauce' add an elegant twist.

Finally, sumptuous desserts such as 'St Clements meringue pie' and 'Ginger 3 ways' round up a heartening meal.

Although a la carte, Powder Keg Diplomacy offers a 'blast from the past' at contemporary price, with starters ranging from £6-£8, mains £13-£24, and desserts £6.

PKD also offers a lighter take on British fare with its lunch and bar menu serving homemade delights such as scotch eggs, game pies with pickles, razor clams in lemon sauce, and braised ham hock on toast; reminiscent of the English countryside and summers-day picnics.

Punches, cocktails and wine lists also take centre-stage with homemade syrups, vermouths, and liqueurs perfectly mixed with historical gins and whiskeys to create the perfect before-and-after dining tipple. A wine list representing Britain and the colonies compliment each course seamlessly, whilst the beer list focuses on the art of British brewing. Whatever tipple you choose, you will undoubtedly be spoilt for choice.

Powder Keg Diplomacy brings a new philosophy to a social pastime and offers experience dining to its patrons. It offers Victorian imagination, ingenuity and innovation, obtainable in the modern-day madness and treated as a perfect escapist dining experience.

Words: KG

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